Riding with the trend for vintage Britannia, this fashion-conscious brasserie revels in its own quirkiness – frilly, granny-chic lampshades are suspended over the tables, stuffed squirrels romp about on the walls and a motley assortment of retro seating is spread over the large, open-plan dining room. This is ‘Fitzrovia's answer to The Wolseley', according to one reader – an all-day dining palace serving sturdy breakfasts and brunches before broadening out its repertoire. Small plates of goats' curd, figs and honey go down well, while spicy buttermilk-fried chicken wings with celery and blue-cheese dip have also been commended. Otherwise it's sustaining comfort food all the way with the likes of smoked-haddock kedgeree, burgers and schnitzels – although ‘insipid' seared swordfish has disappointed. Desserts such as tarte Tatin hit the spot, and the cocktails and wine are top notch, but the scale of the set-up means that service sometimes goes skew-whiff.
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