Chez Manny

Thank god for quality neighbourhood restaurants like Chez Manny which continue quietly to serve up good, honest food in amenable surroundings, for when you're just too tired to queue for the latest ceviche/churrasco/tapas gastro “experience”. There's a warm welcome at this little French stalwart, especially for my canine companion who got plenty of attention (as well as a few sneaky offcuts), and from my position on the sofa I can see 3 or 4 locals chatting to staff at the bar, a group table, and a family with young children, so there's a lively hum and you can tell that the convivial, relaxed atmosphere draws in all sorts for all sorts of occasions. Neither the menu nor the cooking is as ambitious as nearby rival Gazette but the focus seems to be on serving just a few, well-executed, traditional dishes and you can't really say fairer than that. My medium/rare rump steak came rather pinky red (but I had been warned that the interpretation would be francais!), with enough fat to ensure full flavour without being too chewy. This sat atop some scrummy rustic cheesey saute potatoes, with crunchy french beans (what else?!) and carrots. My one criticism is that the dish was somewhat overseasoned and I'd have preferred to add the salt and freshly ground peppercorn myself. I couldn't resist a creme brulee which had a beautifully sweet, crisp coat but could have had a slightly stronger vanilla kick in the perfect creme-y smoothness. The wine list is a manageable length and when I ask for a by-the-glass recommendation the maitre d' suggests the house red which he says is as good as any other: what refreshing striaightforwardness (and he wasn't wrong). At £33 for 2 courses and 2 glasses, including charming service, it was good value. Perfect for a chilled Sunday night and any other time when you need (dare this Englishwoman say it) a little bit of Gallic hospitality.

I used to dine at Chez Manny often, and I always found the unique combination of the relaxed and authentic French bistro atmosphere, the infectious enthusiasm and friendliness of the staff, and the excellent rustic French food, to be an absolute joy which made me return again and again.

I found myself in the area again yesterday evening and had a truly excellent meal and a very relaxing and enjoyable evening with a friend. The bistro feel of the restaurant, which gives onto a cobbled street, and Manny and the staff's friendliness instantly put you at ease. As does the drinkability of the excellent Languedoc house wine, of course! The food was a joy; everything was great quality, from the warm French bread at the beginning, to the divine deep fried tempura prawn starter, and the highlight being my main, the cassoulet. This was a hearty, authentic and delicious dish. The portion was generous to say the least, the sauce was unctuous, it had a crumbly top, and within it were all sorts of delicious things such as confit duck leg, ham hock, and the lovely Toulouse sausages.

A great meal with great conversation and a superb ambiance was had. For a few hours we were transported into the unique experience of being in a fantastic quality local rural French bistro, all about 5 minutes away walk away from Clapham Junction station! I heartily recommend.