It’s worth braving the traffic chaos of Vauxhall gyratory to find Brunswick House – a characterful oasis amid soulless high-rises. Framed by glass-fronted apartments, the Georgian building harks back to Vauxhall’s ‘pleasure garden’ days – although it now serves as an architectural salvage shop, within which the café does its thing. The kitchen serves up modestly priced seasonal dishes in a recently extended dining room filled with the shop’s more wacky curios – think antique toy cars, giant clocks and gaudy chandeliers. Dishes on the daily set menu pack plenty of flavour: slippery lentils are offset by tart goats’ curd and zesty herb sauce, while lemon sole comes with complex smoked anchovy mayonnaise and sweet roasted fennel. Regulars also praise the weekend brunch. Service is sprightly and honest, and a surprisingly good wine list offers plenty by the carafe.
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Rocket & Squash :: Brunswick House Café
I’d drunk many a coffee at the Vauxhall venue, the Brunswick House Café, but for some reason never been near at the right time for lunch or dinner. Reviews were generally good when it opened in 2011, and the dining room, busy with furniture and countless lights and signs hanging from the ceiling, has always intrigued. I finally found good reason (and time) to visit and eat a few lunchtimes ago...
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