It’s even worth navigating the subways & traffic lights of Vauxhall gyratory to find Brunswick House: an oasis of character amid soulless high-rises. Locked in on two sides by glass-fronted apartments, the Georgian building harks back to Vauxhall’s time as a pleasure garden. The higgledy-piggledy old structure now serves as an architectural salvage shop, but also has a quirky café with tables dotted among the ripped-out fittings & curios. Simple, seasonal cooking is the forte. Portions might be modest but prices are low, & dishes such as venison chorizo on sourdough with a fried duck egg; ox heart, red cabbage & aïoli; & rhubarb crumble with clotted cream pack in plenty of flavour. Locals also sing the praises of the weekend brunch. Service is spritely & honest, & a surprisingly good wine list offers plenty by the carafe.
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