It’s worth braving the traffic chaos of Vauxhall gyratory to find Brunswick House – a characterful oasis amid soulless high-rises. Framed by glass-fronted apartments, the Georgian building harks back to Vauxhall’s ‘pleasure garden’ days – although it now serves as an architectural salvage shop, within which the café does its thing. The kitchen serves up modestly priced seasonal dishes in a recently extended dining room filled with the shop’s more wacky curios – think antique toy cars, giant clocks and gaudy chandeliers. Dishes on the daily set menu pack plenty of flavour: slippery lentils are offset by tart goats’ curd and zesty herb sauce, while lemon sole comes with complex smoked anchovy mayonnaise and sweet roasted fennel. Regulars also praise the weekend brunch. Service is sprightly and honest, and a surprisingly good wine list offers plenty by the carafe.
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