Table booking is essential and standing is not permitted at this sophisticated sepia-toned Long Island luxe lounge summoning up the 1920s. Rare, revived and new-fashion old-fashioned cocktails line up like flirty chorus girls demanding attention, and they’re all top drawer. Arcane infusions, homemade distillations, macerations and weird ingredients such as umami foam, seaweed air and tapioca sugar inform seductive drinks with out-there presentation, although blue-sky ideas can sometimes lapse into kitsch: witness the Pit Cairn punch with its Alpine forest scene atop a mix of Cardhu whisky, Tanqueray gin, durian and jackfruit infusion, served in a blue tin mug. But if you’re after a nightcap with some tapas, charcuterie, cheese or Negroni chocolate truffles, you’ll be hard pushed to better this Count Basie belter with its regular live jazz and blues.
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