Everything is on an impressive scale at Gordon Ramsay’s stripped-down, industrial-chic City gastrodome – a favourite for business lunches, birthdays and all kinds of ‘intimate and social meet-ups’. The buzzy atmosphere is infectious. Perch on a chair at the bar and watch plates of vibrant ceviche being prepped with production-line efficiency, or soak up the full-throated nightclub roar of the place when it’s packed to capacity. With size comes versatility, and the stripped-back, all-purpose menu is now simpler to navigate than before. Chomp on a pizza or graze on fried sand eels with tartare sauce, fill up with an English rose-veal chop from the Josper grill or go for grey mullet with duck-fat chips. Staff are usually chirpy, eager and courteous, although reports of ‘shoddy’, slow service suggest it’s not always up to Gordon’s expected high standard. The lengthy global wine list is a sound selection for all palates and pockets.
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