Amaranto

Spread across the ground floor of the expensively revamped Four Seasons Hotel, Amaranto has been conceived as a fashionable, all-inclusive venue, incorporating a wood-panelled restaurant & conservatory plus a bar/lounge with three intimate salons. Deep reds, black lacquering & leather-topped tables scream kitsch opulence, & daily set menus offer an adventurous, contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine, although the results are competent rather than hugely memorable: top call is rabbit dismantled as rack, loin, leg & a ‘sandwich’ of belly, but the kitchen also serves Piedmontese beef carpaccio over Parmesan mousse & shows some clever strokes when it comes to dessert – working stawberries & balsamic into a risotto, for example. Cheeses are in good shape, but Amaranto’s real trump card is its 275-bin, regional Italian wine list – with full access by the glass if you wish.