‘Without soy sauce, but if you want to’, proclaims a neon sign behind the green-tiled counter – just one novel aspect of this superior Japanese eatery set up by two Nobu protégés, which serves some of the best sushi in town. Although there are tables downstairs, most aficionados perch at the bar and watch as the chefs apply their razor-sharp skills to pieces of ultra-fresh yellowtail, salmon, tuna, razor clams etc. Come here for fiercely modern sushi, sashimi and hot dishes defined by clean accents and flashy technique – witness scallops seared with a blowtorch on a lump of polished wood from a fossilised tree trunk. Elsewhere, pure-bred Ibérico pork is served with green chilli, savoury barbecued eel is enhanced with the sweetness of mango and pineapple, and lamb is marinated in saikyo miso. It’s far from cheap and service can be erratic, but most people soon ‘sink into the flow’.
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