Unpretentious & likeable, but serious about both food & wine, Vinoteca brings the approachable sensibility of its Clerkenwell wine shop/restaurant to smart Portman Village. Clever touches abound – Prosecco on tap is turned into heady aperitifs using seasonal fruit & interesting spirits, for example. To go with something interesting from the thoughtfully priced & helpfully annotated 250-bin list, choose anything from a plate of British cheeses or Spanish charcuterie to a fully formed, cleverly cooked three-courser. Butter-poached grey mullet with mussels vinaigrette, fennel & green beans fits well with a glass of 2010 Kamptal Grüner Veltliner, thinly sliced bavette steak with horseradish deserves a Hawkes Bay Merlot, & any of the incredibly light puddings are worth ordering. An open kitchen adds atmosphere to the plainly decorated room, & staff wear their considerable knowledge lightly.
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