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‘Subdued in the noble environs of Northumberland Avenue', little Watatsumi deserves to be more busy than it generally is. This smart, marble-pillared dining room within the Club Quarters Hotel is rarely packed to the gills, but those who do venture through the doors can take advantage of a proficient sushi bar delivering flappingly fresh examples of yellowtail nigiri, king-crab sashimi, spicy salmon maki rolls and the like. Elsewhere, the menu offers confident renditions of classy Japanese fare from zesty yuzu garlic prawns to Wagyu beef in truffle teriyaki sauce and miso-glazed black cod. Pricing can be erratic (perhaps to attract passing tourist trade), though a dependable theatre menu offers two/three courses plus a glass of wine for £19.50/25.50. Japanese whiskies, Koshu wine and Asian-themed cocktails feature on the drinks list.

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