Praise is unanimous for this ‘friendly, light, unpretentious’ newcomer, which has given a once-doomed corner sight near Kentish Town tube a fresh lease of life. Kentish Canteen’s owners have installed a couple of hotshot chefs, a menu that thrives on first-rate produce, sensible pricing & colourful murals of the locality – & created a winner. Certainly the locals who pack the place at breakfast, lunch & dinner would agree; slow-roast Kent tomatoes on sourdough toast accompanied by a Union Coffee flat white & a copy of The Guardian is definitely their kind of brunch. Ottolenghi-style salads (radicchio, wild garlic, grapes & radish, perhaps) get the seal of approval, as do buttery own-smoked salmon with chilli & lemon, & a burly burger with bacon, cheese, chunky chips & coleslaw. Puds, like rhubarb & custard pot, are full of nostalgic charm, while staff are young & chirpy.
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