Following a change of ownership and some sympathetic surgery, this backstreet boozer and beer garden has been restored to its green-tiled, stripped-back, Victorian prime – and it’s now an indie free house well worth seeking out. Vintage speakers blare out a muso-cool playlist, while punters sip affordable wines, spritzes, fizzes and a trio of seasonal cocktails made with locally distilled spirits, homemade syrups and cordials. There’s also a useful range of traditional London-style craft ales from the likes of Beavertown and Hackney hopmeisters Pressure Drop. The sensibly short daily menu of heritage-inspired pub grub might promise home-cured charcuterie or raw mackerel with sea purslane and potatoes, ahead of charred spring vegetables with sheep’s cheese and herbs, Stilton burger or onglet and chips, with fresh strawberries or baked vanilla cheesecake for dessert.
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