Brawn proves that the team behind Terroirs and Soif really ‘get’ east London. This is arguably the hippest venue in their ‘natural wine’ group, and its dressed-down design is bang on – think concrete floors, enamel lights and bric-a-brac. The kitchen also does well by embracing locally based food heroes (the E5 Bakehouse, for example), while cheering on artisan suppliers from France and Italy. Brawn’s daily menu affords the freedom to pick and mix small plates or hog three courses: begin with impressive hand-crafted charcuterie or a genius ’nduja Scotch egg, then yo-yo your way through the likes of buffalo mozzarella with caponata, onglet with garlicky snails and Frangelico tiramisu. The wine list should dispel any lingering prejudices about ‘natural’ viticulture: there’s always something new, be it a first-growth Burgundy or an off-the-wall biodynamic bottle from a tiny village.
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