Head north from Shoreditch up Kingsland Road & you’ll pass a string of Vietnamese restaurants. It’s worth continuing as far as Loong Kee, though, as this is one of the more interesting eateries on the Pho Mile – if not one of the prettiest (in spite of a recent makeover). Ignore the shades-of-beige colour scheme & acres of veneer, & concentrate on the food. Frogs’ legs with salt & chillies, papaya & dried beef salad, shaking beef & the house special banh cuon (steamed rolls) are all worth a try. Now under new management, Loong Kee seems to have lost a little of its mojo (the dining room is certainly quieter), but has kept prices low & remains BYO.
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