The rat race’s loss is Earl’s Court’s gain at City escapee Vikash Dhawan’s Thali, an impressive ambassador for North Indian cooking, where Bollywood posters and a wall-mounted rickshaw set the relaxed scene for some top tiffin. Grilled sea-fresh scallops in a zing tomato and cream emulsion, flavoursome, chunky lamb chops with masala spices, and subtly spiced chicken breasts from the tandoor are spot-on starters, ahead of a fine Goan cod curry served with perfect Basmati rice or juicy prawn paithaya in an agreeably bitter/smoky mustard-seed sauce that stays on the right side of “OMG!” hot. Otherwise, share one of the eponymous all-inclusive thalis with palatable house wines by the glass. Ice creams aside, desserts were ‘off’ when we visited – but given the affordability of such persuasive cooking, there will be other opportunities to appraise the likes of gulab jamun.
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