With a Guardian column & two cookbooks under his belt, plus four much-praised delis, Yotam Ottolenghi has raised his profile even further with this full-on restaurant. Nopi certainly looks the part with its warm, welcoming interior suffused with a soft glow from brass lamps & a ceiling designed to soak up excessive noise. The kitchen serves breakfast, lunch & dinner with a Middle Eastern/Mediterranean slant, & a bias towards Ottolenghi’s famed vegetarian dishes: creamy burrata is perked up with coriander seeds & blood orange, while braised artichoke is paired with broad beans & preserved lemon. The food may be light, but it delivers on flavour – even when you are tackling something more substantial such as beef-brisket croquettes with Asian slaw. The only bugbear is Nopi’s rather cock-eyed pricing policy – although Ottolenghi’s disciples are so devout they would forgive the chef anything.
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