Credit to the slick young owners who’ve given The Hemingway (briefly the Pennethorne & before that Garbo’s) a new lease of life. They could so easily have done the usual ‘stripped-floorboards & school chairs’ thing, but instead they’ve created a smart bar without jettisoning its essential pub nature. Locals popping in for a pint will find Deuchars IPA, Doom Bar & Meantime Wheat, while those in search of a big night out can explore some high-end bespoke rums from behind the bar. The open kitchen creates laudable renditions of such gastro-standards as Scotch eggs, moules, fat bacon & cheeseburgers – as well as Sunday roasts. The look is eclectic, bordering on wacky, though weirdly grown-up. The mounted animal heads, blinds, dark-wood bar & crossed rifles wouldn’t look out of place in a British Empire hunting lodge. Anything goes in Hackney.
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