‘A celebration of the relationship between fire & food’ is how Jamie Oliver & New York BBQ king Adam Perry Lang describe their homage to artisan cooking techniques from around the globe. Those who have experienced Barbecoa’s charms are mostly impressed, citing the ‘great flavours’ & ‘rustic presentation’ on wooden blocks – although much depends on the quality of the ingredients, especially the dry-aged British & Irish beef. The menu is short & fiercely carnivorous, yet surprisingly refined: starters of coal-roasted beet salad or Lyme Bay crab could give way to ‘tender’ pulled pork shoulder from the Texas pit smoker or char-grilled sirloin steak with cep & rosemary cream. Matching the food is a cosmopolitan, Euro-accented wine list. Barbecoa sprawls impressively around a glassy corner of the One New Change complex, with Jean Nouvel’s spiky geometry pitched against chunky, blood-coloured leather banquettes & close-up views of St Paul’s.
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The Cow Club Council: a London steak blog :: Barbecoa
Top quartile, but not quite equalling the score achieved by Hawksmoor. The overall ambience and meat-tinged magic of the dining experience certainly boosts what was otherwise a strangely underwhelming steak. Not a bad steak by any means, and by some measures, really quite accomplished; but sadly, for the demanding standards set by the Cow Club quorum, it falls short of the nirvana discovered in Hawksmoor.
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