Terrific views of St Paul's and a garrulous buzz ensure plenty of atmosphere at Jamie Oliver's ‘cathedral' to meat and fire. Wedged into the first floor of One New Change, the glassy dining room wraps itself around the kitchen, all acute angles, macho materials and leather banquettes the colour of rare beef. There are some bold strokes – crispy pig's cheeks with crunchy piccalilli, smoky-sweet, chilli-spiked pulled pork, ‘wonderful pit beef' with baked beans, baby back ribs, well-hung steaks and more. Fans can't get enough of the place, but others suggest a serious mismatch between price and experience – singling out a 'testosterone-fuelled' vibe, ‘forgetful' service and the all-pervasive ‘stink' of BBQ. Don't miss the ‘stunning' whiskey list, but avoid the curtained ‘Siberian' space near the entrance – Stygian gloom descends come nightfall.
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Scoff London :: Barbecoa, EC4
As we got within sight of Barbecoa, which is part of the One New Change complex, we were hit by a wall of delicious BBQ smells and couldn't wait to get inside. You enter on the ground floor where there is a small bar and staff to take your coats before they send you upstairs. Once upstairs you realise that the restaurant covers a lot of square footage but because the dining area runs around three sides of a central, open kitchen it never feels too big. The restaurant is dark, the decor is classy and there are floor to ceiling windows pretty much everywhere you look. Very cool...
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Ross eats :: Barbecoa
Barbecoa is a joint restaurant by Jamie Oliver and American BBQ expert Adam Perry Lang. Described as providing ‘a completely unique grilling concept in London’ the initial reviews were full of ‘must try harders’ so having been open for a year and in the mood for a bit of BBQ action, and as it now seems much easier to get a table, I popped in for a dinner to see what all the ‘fuss’ was really all about. I’m always a little bit cautious of the Jamie Oliver branded restaurants as they seem to focus more on simple cooking done well, and while that’s all well and good I can do that pretty well myself at home; also my initial joy at the ‘Jamie-isms’ plastered all around the menu, decor and staff lips have finally waned. I was therefore rather pleased that this didn’t really feel like a Jamie restaurant at all, not a ‘pukka’ in sight. The staff were all very keen to entertain, we received endless chat, amusing stories and a visual tour of the various BBQ’ing implements in the kitchen – this is probably as ‘Jamie’ as it gets and thankfully that’s the one bit of the brand that will forever work as they did their very best to ensure that everyone has a fun dining experience, and indeed we did...
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