Terrific views of St Paul's and a garrulous buzz ensure plenty of atmosphere at Jamie Oliver's ‘cathedral' to meat and fire. Wedged into the first floor of One New Change, the glassy dining room wraps itself around the kitchen, all acute angles, macho materials and leather banquettes the colour of rare beef. There are some bold strokes – crispy pig's cheeks with crunchy piccalilli, smoky-sweet, chilli-spiked pulled pork, ‘wonderful pit beef' with baked beans, baby back ribs, well-hung steaks and more. Fans can't get enough of the place, but others suggest a serious mismatch between price and experience – singling out a 'testosterone-fuelled' vibe, ‘forgetful' service and the all-pervasive ‘stink' of BBQ. Don't miss the ‘stunning' whiskey list, but avoid the curtained ‘Siberian' space near the entrance – Stygian gloom descends come nightfall.
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