Quaff with a clear conscience at this agreeably informal ‘natural’ wine bar, where the decor blends art deco, bare brick & hints of railways past & the list is packed with organic & biodynamic bottles. Small producers from France & beyond take precedence, so it pays to invest in something rather adventurous from the array of independents on show. Backing up the booze is an admirable selection of charcuterie as well as a short menu of genuinely home-cooked small & main plates from steamed razor clams with chorizo or baked Camembert normand to rabbit fricassee with green beans, cider & wholegrain mustard (each with a wine-matching suggestion). Stray oenophobes can slake their thirst with biodynamic French cider or Rothaus beers from the Black Forest. It’s ‘the real thing’, enthuses a fan.
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