If anyone was up to the task of relaunching such a well-loved institution as the Savoy Grill, it was probably Gordon Ramsay – although the new regime got off to a rickety start. Happily, service is now ‘a perfect balance of professionalism & friendliness’, while the luxurious art-deco room provides effortless glamour & a spacious setting. The kitchen delivers a straightforward selection of heroic grills & roasts, while starters & puds bear all the hallmarks of perfectly executed ‘simple tradition’. Start with creamy omelette Arnold Bennett (a dish created at The Savoy) or full-flavoured lobster bisque, proceed to Herdwick lamb cutlets, Dover sole meunière or côte de boeuf for two, before indulging in moist apple charlotte or rice pudding with poached Morello cherries. Big-hitting Bordeaux & Burgundies chime perfectly with the prevailing mood.
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