If Jason Atherton’s super-cool uptown flagship were a rock band, it would already have been inducted into the hall of fame. ‘Special things happen here’, and fans treasure the place like an old friend. The clean-lined, metropolitan dining room has been refreshed, the pedigree wine list is better than ever, and there’s renewed energy in the kitchen, too – consider the silky finesse and finery of roasted Scrabster lobster with cubes of pungent Ibérico ham, baby leeks, chanterelles and deep, flavoursome shellfish broth. Otherwise, dip into Pollen Street’s scintillating back catalogue for the ever-evolving ‘risotto’ of squid with cauliflower and limpid, golden juices, or Highland venison with honey-spiced beetroots, quince purée and pickled pear. And then there’s the ‘unmissable’ dessert bar. The whole place exudes ‘razzy warmth’ and service bristles with confidence – in short, ‘one of London’s finest’.
This is not a list that does anything unusual – but it is about as rock solid and professional as you could wish. At 500 bins, it’s not a small list, but nor is it stuffed with wines that won’t sell. And while there might be a few trophy wines for clients with deep pockets, there is no shortage of fairly priced stuff, too. A third of the white Burgundies, for instance, are around £50 or less. Free of fuss, simple to use and error free, it’s a really good example of a no-nonsense list.
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