
As hot as a freshly blasted rib-eye & as cool as tarragon ice cream, Jason Atherton’s standalone gaff has shot to the top since its launch, & fully deserves the title BMW Square Meal Restaurant of the Year 2011. Pitched as a dressed-down ‘social’ venue, it bristles with confidence, energy & noise; it also provides a thrilling backdrop to food that rivals the capital’s best for exuberance & imaginative brio – proof positive that Atherton has upped his game since quitting Ramsay’s Maze. Conventional starters & mains now dominate the menu, with signature tasting plates taking a back seat. That said, standouts are many & mouth-watering, from the ‘moreish opulence’ of quail escabèche with chicken-liver cream, nuts & seeds to pearly-white halibut served with sprouting broccoli, translucent slivers of lardo & ‘broodingly earthy’ paella. Then there is the dessert bar – adult playtime for lovers of silky chocolate pavé with mango sorbet or PBJ (complex riffs on peanuts, cherries & rice puffs). The dining room is a ‘beautiful, contemporary space’ (wood surfaces, leather trim, spherical lampshades), overseen by a brigade of highly assured, personable & ‘well-informed’ staff. Set lunches are a ‘deliciously flavoured bargain’ if you fancy a quickie at this electrifying big-city eatery.
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