Now that word has got out, it’s not so easy to bag a table at this dinky sushi joint, so phone ahead. Why the popularity? It’s Atari-ya’s flipping fresh fish – the quality soars above what you’ll find at chain sushi joints, but not the prices. Glossy slivers of tuna, salmon, yellowtail & mackerel are neatly lined up on wooden boards with mounds of wasabi & pickled ginger. Sushi aside, there’s much else to please: deep-fried halibut is like a fishy version of agedashi tofu in a soft, fragrant broth; chicken yakitori come as tasty little skewers; & the tempura has all the requisite crispness without any grease. Drink draught Asahi or warm saké & be sure to bring cash: you’ll want to reward the obliging staff, but tips aren’t accepted on credit cards.
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