At the cross-street epicentre of London’s fashion stores, Bond & Brook couldn’t be more convenient for shoppers about to drop. Squirreled away in Fenwick’s ladieswear department, the white, mirrored room offers an almost angelic setting for small plates that are undoubtedly satisfying, but easy on the waistline. Little crab cakes with rémoulade, smoked salmon terrine, or caponata & mozzarella on focaccia suit the size zeros, while those concerned about ‘clinical portion control’ will find more to like in a man-sized ham & parsley pie. However, this collection’s highlights are an afternoon tea of ‘couture cakes’ & finger sandwiches that chime perfectly with the sedate, secluded setting, plus a cheeky array of baby-sized full-English breakfasts slotted into sizzling skillets as proper fortification before a hard day’s retail therapy on the credit card.
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