Equally popular with Chelsea high rollers and tourists (‘breathe in the international atmosphere'), Cassis recently switched its cultural and gastronomic allegiance, moving from chic Provençal to regional Italian. Flaming plinths outside may suggest ostentation, but there's nothing brash about the ‘bijou' blue-green tiled interior, modern artworks and glass-fronted wine displays. The menu now opens with a roster of antipasti ranging from grilled octopus with borlotti beans to veal carpaccio with aged parmesan and black truffle, while pasta runs with the seasons (perhaps Scottish lobster spaghetti or taleggio fagotelli with Treviso radicchio). There are also classic grills and more substantial ‘secondi’ such as pork fillet with coco bean purée and cavolo nero, ahead of homemade tarts and tiramisu. Staff are ‘very accommodating’ and the sommelier is a fount of knowledge when it comes to the 700-bin wine list.
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