Housed in the old Watney Combe brewery, this handsome Hawksmoor has proved a resounding hit. Inside, the bar/dining room is a riot of striking original & reclaimed features, including a barrel-vaulted brick ceiling – so expect an ‘ear-bleeding’ racket when it’s busy. Top-notch juleps are a must-sip on the ‘fantastic’ cocktail list, & the menu is a carnivore’s dream – ‘the meat was a revelation’, drools one happy reader. Glorious 35-day-aged beef comes from The Ginger Pig: a bone-in porterhouse steak was the best we’ve tasted in ages, while the triple-cooked or beef-dripping chips are ‘fine examples of the fryer’s art’. Sauces & other sides are spot-on, & puds such as peanut butter shortbread with salted-caramel ice cream end things on a luscious high. Deftly chosen wines suit every pocket, & there’s a great-value theatre menu too. ‘An unpretentious treat’.
Boasting a user-friendly
A5 size and clear layout, Hawksmoor’s list ticks a number of boxes, in managing to be both unfussy and intermittently informative, particularly when explaining its ‘Current Favourites’. Question
marks were raised about the definition of what exactly ‘Reserve Whites/Reds’ might mean, but on the whole this is an easy list to follow.
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