‘Almost too good to be true’ declares an admirer of this small, neat Italian – a cosy oasis at the edge of the noisy Highbury Corner roundabout. Trullo was opened in 2010 by graduates of Fifteen & The River Café, & immediately won legions of fans for its modestly priced seasonal Italian food & wine. The numbers in the right-hand column have risen since then, but the descriptions preceding them still read as quality ingredients treated with minimal fuss. Antipasti ranges from a salumi plate of cured meats to smoked eel wrapped in coppa di Parma with turnip purée. Next there might be pappardelle with beef-shin ragù, or slip soles with brown shrimps & smashed peas, before caramel pannacotta. The young staff are smiling & helpful, although occasionally the atmosphere can be rushed. Expansion downwards has produced a basement bar (open Thurs-Sat 6.30-10.30pm; pictured above) where sharing plates & cocktails hold sway. Note: at Sunday lunch, a no-choice four-course menu has been introduced.
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