Trullo’s young owners obviously heeded the advice of their high-profile mentors (Jamie Oliver, Rose Gray), because ‘they make running a restaurant look easy’. All the signs are good – from cheerfully enthusiastic staff to honest seasonal food at reasonable prices, and there’s a sure hand in the kitchen, too. ‘Beautiful’ pasta receives warm praise, from pappardelle with beef-shin ragù to outstanding spaghetti with hispi cabbage and bottarga; otherwise, try crispy pig’s ears with anchovy ahead of a mighty Black Hampshire pork chop from the grill. There’s also a cracking all-Italian wine list with a fine choice by the glass or carafe, personable tasting notes and hand-drawn maps. These days, you can choose to eat in the rustic ground-floor bistro or the more urban basement (complete with exposed ducts); either way, it ‘can’t be faulted’.
At only 12 pages of wines, the Trullo list is a model of restraint, yet still manages to cover every region and style, with no wines (bar a couple of English fizzes) from outside Italy. Attractive, hand-drawn maps are a nice touch, and thumbs-up for the information on each wine – you’ll find details on the region, the grape, the alcohol level and the wine’s weight (on a scale of one to five) as well as personable tasting notes.
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