What happens to graduates of The River Café and Jamie Oliver's Fifteen? Well, some of them end up running their own show – in this case an unassuming little venue dealing in plates of ‘glorious, different and lovingly prepared Italian food'. Despite the occasional hiccup, the kitchen is capable of delivering some exemplary dishes – notably grilled sweetbreads with duck hearts, tagliarini with courgettes and brown shrimps (a dish you could chomp all summer long), roast poussin with Castelluccio lentils and girolles, and some of the most ‘deliciously dressed' salads in the business. Staff are keen, patient and knowledgeable, the mood is buoyant, and plenty of Italian wines are available by the carafe (sample sips are freely offered) – no wonder readers call it a ‘revelation'. Turnover is fast and bills can escalate, but Trullo is a ‘consistently excellent' asset on noisy Highbury Corner.
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