Cattle Grid

With a choice of ‘pig’ or ‘cow’ topping the menu, & a large black & white long-horned statue on the doorstep, Cattle Grid isn’t timid about announcing its speciality. For steaks, burgers & ribs, it’s a fair option, & the chips are good, too. Venture further into the menu at your peril – although there are some fine-sounding salad combos (teriyaki beef & chilli, or tuna & soy), they’re not the kitchen’s strong point. Diners curious to try some fabled Wagyu beef, but not wanting to take out a second mortgage, are in luck – a 10oz steak with chips & watercress costs only £22, & the chefs know what they’re doing with the meat. There’s a branch at 76 Northcote Road, Clapham SW11 6QL (020 7228 4188), & another in Windsor.