Stylish, simple & ‘River Café lite’, chef-proprietor Sam Harris’s chic Bermondsey restaurant woos an appreciative crowd with its zero-fuss approach to Italian cuisine, where ingredients are left to speak for themselves. The daily changing menu is terse yet inviting in its descriptions, witness ‘San Daniele & pigeon crostini’ or ‘mozzarella, garlic leaves & lentils’. Smoky, char-grilled veal chops served simply with verdant spinach & a squeeze of lemon are unmissable, likewise the homemade pastas (casarecce with pork & fennel ragù) – as al dente as mama intended. Desserts might include moist, nutty pistachio cake or wibbly-wobbly pannacotta. Prices are low for cooking of this calibre, with all mains below £15 & margins on a cracking Italian wine list are decidedly ungreedy. Service is as sharp as the clean-cut lines of the dining room.
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