‘French cooking at its best’ is the overall verdict from fans who have drooled over Pierre Koffmann’s emblematic stuffed pig’s trotter & other slices of bold, Gascon-fuelled rusticity. The odd dish can misfire (a starter of squid bolognese has been tough as well as tiny), but the legendary chef really shines when delivering luxed-up peasant food: a pull-apart daube of beef with dark, rich gravy, for example, or perfectly cooked calf’s liver invigorated by a zingy lime sauce. For dessert, the ‘feather-light’ pistachio soufflé always lives up to its hype. Unstarched staff join in the general bonhomie, & the level-headed sommelier is a dab hand at pertinent pairings. Any niggles tend to focus on the library-like hush of the three-tier, creamy-toned dining room, & prices also raise a few eyebrows – although most are happy to pay a bit more for the gastronomic equivalent of a Rolls Royce.
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