‘Excellent' beef brings hardcore meat lovers to this smartly masculine offshoot of the Goodman chain, where a convivial bar gives way to the dining room's darker, single-mindedly carnivorous inner sanctum, complete with Sinatra soundtrack and glass-fronted peepshow of slowly maturing carcasses. The steak is worthy of attention – if ‘pricey'. Prime cuts are the deal – anything from Irish and Scottish grass-fed fillets with béarnaise to ‘heavenly rib-eye' or corn-fed, 150-day-aged USDA Angus T-bone. Classic sides are given the luxury treatment – lobster mac and cheese, steamed asparagus, truffled chips – and desserts such as fudge ice-cream sundae are matched with dessert-wine suggestions. In contrast to many City steakhouses, the list is headed by cult American reds rather than patrician Bordeaux. Staff are knowledgeable and ‘super-passionate', but relaxed.
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