With help from his sidekick Ashley Palmer-Watts, Heston Bumenthal’s Knightsbridge leviathan has survived the early hype and emerged as a fully-rounded ambassador for British cookery. Jelly-mould light fittings and views of the glass-walled kitchen lend character to the low-key, brown-toned dining room, but the real focus is on a cornucopia of born-again victuals. ‘Meat fruit’ remains the most talked about dish, but other historically charged inventions are equally stunning: a ‘salmagundi’ of gooey bone marrow, chicken, salsify and horseradish, a ‘palette’ of roast cod on creamy nettle porridge with smoked beetroot (circa 1660), and tipsy cake with sweet caramel and chunks of spit-roast pineapple (‘simply heaven’) have all come up trumps on this date-stamped, ‘back to the future’ merry-go-round. There’s less outright showmanship than at The Fat Duck, but Blumenthal can’t do without theatre – cue a nitro ice-cream cart for instant access to London’s coolest Mr Whippy. ‘Incredibly enthusiastic, knowledgeable service’ seldom falters – in fact ‘astronomical’ prices are the only blots on this ‘truly amazing’ gastronomic landscape.
Square Meal is proud to be supporting homeless charity StreetSmart in their 2013 campaign, for the fifth year running. StreetSmart works with over 500 restaurants nationwide by adding £1 to every bill throughout November and December, which is donated to local homeless charities.
Square Meal has pledged to donate an extra £1 to StreetSmart for every online booking made at a participating restaurant through Squaremeal.co.uk in November & December 2013.
By booking this restaurant, you are helping Streetsmart make double the impact.
Click here to watch our film about why your £1 makes a difference, with some special appearances from celebrity chefs.
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