Uniquely civilised, Gauthier is also the smartest restaurant in Soho – ‘elegant & intimate’, with its topiary-fronted, townhouse facade. Alexis Gauthier, ex Roussillon in Pimlico, conjures up brilliantly light & ‘beautifully presented’ classical French cuisine, with an emphasis on vegetables & Mediterranean flavours: glazed piglet is served with chard & sweet-&-sour apple, while Angus beef fillet comes with black olives, confit tomato & fennel. Gauthier Soho is also a top shout for vegetarians, with an eight-course légumes du jour menu (£60), & some exceptional risotti: green pea, morel, winter truffle. The intelligent, ‘honestly priced’ wine list has a strong southern French bias, & a clutch of interesting biodynamic whites by the glass. From some, slow & stilted service can jar, & not everyone likes the entry-by-doorbell shtick, but there are no complaints about the ‘tremendous-value’ lunch/pre-theatre menu (from £18).
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