Ring the doorbell to gain access to Gauthier Soho – a discreet and intimate townhouse held in high esteem for its ‘spot-on, seasonal cooking’. Every dish is calorie-counted and the innovative carte comprises a collection of plats rather than conventional courses – from lightly roasted peaches with sugar-flecked foie gras or tender morsels of lobster and lime-marinated scallops dotted with shellfish jus, to sophisticated vegetarian riffs such as tomato-and-beetroot tartare with peppered ricotta and lemon-balm velouté. The reverently quiet, all-white dining rooms – not to all tastes – provide a comfortable backdrop for Gauthier’s pin-sharp culinary adventures, although polite staff sometimes fail to pick up on customer cues (traipsing up and down the dark stairway doesn’t help). However, Gauthier’s ever-changing list of ‘wonderful’, mainly French wines and unmissable pre-theatre bargains make it a star turn – especially when you factor in that serene, cosseting, ultra-civilised vibe.
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