‘It may not be in the most fashionable part of town’, says one reader, but Trish Hilferty’s Canton Arms is ‘well worth the visit’. The Australian chef (once of The Eagle & The Anchor & Hope) opened the doors to this revamped pub on scruffy South Lambeth Road in 2010, following a minimal makeover that saw the televisions stripped out, the walls painted blood-red & the dark-wood panelling given a buff. Former employers have clearly left their mark, & Hilferty pens a gutsy, pared-down British menu every morning. The foie gras & haggis toasties have already made a big impression on punters, & might precede simple, high-quality mains such as a chicken & tarragon pie, or Barnsley chop with lentils. The Canton’s wine list, brought by very friendly staff, provides some big flavours to match the food. Treacle tart provides a typically unfussy, if sticky, end to a meal.
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