Lookswise, it may suffer in comparison with the grander, more luxurious Galvin La Chapelle next door, but Café a Vin can still hold its head firmly aloft. Top-notch French bourgeois food in a delightfully dressed-down atmosphere is the deal in this classically styled bistro, & weekends are the ideal time to enjoy a drawn-out lunch amid its painted mirrors & piano in one corner. Start with the classic Alsace tarte flambé, or perhaps half-a-dozen oysters, before moving on to seared bavette with herbed Puy lentils, beans & mustard dressing or duck breast with potato rösti, beetroot & blackcurrant jus. Staff are extremely polite & professional (‘worth every penny’, according to one reader), & the two-course lunch/dinner deal (£14.95) is remarkable value. There are also some fascinating ‘natural’ & biodynamic wines on the inviting, French-led list.
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