Petite Galvin Café a Vin may lack the undeniable grandeur of La Chapelle next door, but it compensates with an easy, winning charm. Decked out in classic bistro livery (including painted mirrors and tightly packed tables), this modest venue serves up good-value French standards such as ‘chunkily tasty' pork and pistachio terrine, steak tartare with sourdough and more robust mains including delicate Cornish brill fillets with ratte potatoes and samphire or char-grilled pork with green beans and cider jus – plus the odd foray to faraway lands (crevettes with mango and chilli, say). A pianist is on hand for live jazz three nights a week, while sun-seekers can head for the charming continental-style terrace out back. The excellent-value two-course menu (£14.95) deserves a cheer – likewise the tempting wine list, tilted towards France and Italy.
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