Imagine a mid-20th century Parisian brasserie transported from Montparnasse to the precincts of the Bank of England, & you’ll get some idea of Raymond Blanc’s first foray into the capital. High ceilings, handsome proportions & rich, rather conservative colours create an unexpected sense of grandeur at this City outpost of the informal BB chain, but for all its Francophone elegance, this is no culinary theme park. Fig & St Loup goats’ cheese tart, garlicky Burgundy snails & Toulouse sausages represent the home country, but you’ll also find oak-smoked Loch Duart salmon with piccalilli, & the grilled Aberdeenshire steaks are served as British cuts. French bottles predominate on the wine list, with plenty of sub-£30 choices & a short selection of higher-priced vintages, including several Bordeaux crus classés. The bar has a clubby intimacy that contrasts pleasantly with the restaurant’s stately dimensions.
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