21 August 2014

The Loft Project

Unit 2a, Quebec Wharf, 315 Kingsland Road, London E8 4DJ

£7.00 Modern European Hackney, Dalston
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  • Opening Hours: Thurs-Sat 7.30pm-12M

Square Meal Review of The Loft Project ?

El Bulli protégé Nuno Mendes caused a real stir when he was cooking dangerously challenging food at the short-lived Bacchus in Hoxton. Now he’s pitched up at a dinky, domestic kitchen in an East London loft-style development, which has morphed into a permanent supper club with guest appearances from big-name chefs. The deal is this: one communal table, Mendes at the stoves & a wild menu running to 12 courses with matching wines. The show begins with easy cocktails & posh nibbles, before an extraordinary procession of increasingly abstruse dishes begins to appear. The names tell as much or as little as you want: ‘Thai explosion with chicken skin’, ‘Milk yuba’, ‘Oysters & onions, old & new’. It’s dizzying stuff, & the whole sense-jangling extravaganza goes on for hours. You may need a lie-down afterwards.

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