Camino

Credited with helping to kick-start the gentrification of King’s Cross, this reliable Spanish eatery has managed to maintain its momentum. The menu has evolved to bring some larger raciones into a tapas format, so you can pick & mix from small-plate classics & rustic regional offerings. Star turns include creamy croquetas generously filled with serrano ham, well-made tortillas & the house selection of cured meats (Ibérico salami & sausage, plus slices of air-cured Segovian pork loin). Elsewhere, a homely & satisfying dish of sautéed potatoes & green peppers – served at the table in a quaint copper pan – comes topped with a fried egg & optional extras (spicy chorizo, say). Finish off with terrific tocina de cielo (‘yolks baked in heaven’). Friendly, clued-up staff are more than happy to suggest matches from the varied selection of wines & sherries.

80406 With its crazy-paved exterior walls, veteran Spanish champion Cigala looks rather passé these days, although supporters insist it’s ‘stronger & more interesting than your average tapas joint’ & regulars still love the ‘neighbourhood’ feel of the place – particularly in the evening. An extensive mix & match menu (too steeply priced for some) woos the crowds with sopa de lentejas (a spicy lentil & chorizo soup suffused with big peasant flavours), deep-fried Padrón peppers, excellent morcilla with fried egg, & pan-fried chicken livers with softened onions & Pedro Ximénez sherry, plus a full quota of cured meats & artisan cheeses. There are also a couple of less-familiar fish dishes worth trying, including txangurro (crab baked in brandy) & salt cod & potato fritters. After dinner, head downstairs to the moodily lit bar for a glass of Spanish hazelnut liqueur or aguardiente (literally ‘burning water’). Service can be patchy.
Wine List: Containing only Spanish wine, Cigala’s list makes a great read with illuminating notes introducing each area. It has a great selection of the classics but also highlights the country’s obscure, interesting regions. An extensive range by the glass helps you to discover them. Best Buy White 2007 Placet, Rioja, Spain, £37. Best Buy Red 2005 Puig y Roca, Augustus,Penedès, Catalonia, Spain, £28.