On the site of the historic Victoria Hotel – a doyenne of hospitality in the days of the Empire – Boyd’s is staking its claim as a serious contender at the bottom of Trafalgar Square. Requisitioned by the Ministry of Defence for many years, the building has been sympathetically restored to its former glory, making the opulent, marble-clad brasserie rather a grand setting for lunch or dinner beneath glittering chandeliers. The menu aims to please, roaming through burgers & omelettes, fish & chips, pasta & other international standbys, with some reasonably priced wines as back-up. There have been some reports of inconsistent cooking, but on a recent visit, perfectly grilled steak & red-snapper goujons with tangy tomato & fennel ketchup didn’t disappoint. On busy nights, the place buzzes as hotel guests mingle with tourists & local workers in the adjoining bar (see review).
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