Tsuru

‘Authentic Japanese food without the hefty price tag’ sums up this enterprising Bankside venture run by three friends. Sustainable fish is Tsuru’s big selling point & it is fashioned by hand into a cracking choice of super-fresh, perfectly textured sushi & sashimi. The kitchen also turns out katsu curry with an eight-hour sauce, teriyaki bento & ippin ryouri – a ‘tapas’ selection including highly recommended free-range chicken kara-age (‘like Japanese KFC but much, much better’). East meets west in the Borough chocolate brownie with green tea ice cream, & the honestly priced drinks list spans everything from Asahi on tap, premium saké & exotic shochu cocktails to nine Old World wines chosen by Damian Tillson of Sotheby’s. The cosy room with its blonde wood, red lamps & brown leather gets rammed at lunchtime. A second branch is now open on Bishopsgate (see review).