The Aubrey at The Kensington Hotel

After overhauling the interiors in 2009, the powers behind this townhouse hotel have turned their attentions to its food and drink, with a glammed-up menu and cocktail list now adding much more finesse to proceedings. Elegant decor takes on a sultry vibe in the windowless bar, where you can pick from a lengthy line-up of clever mixes (a ginger and lavender martini, perhaps) or ask talented staff to whip up something bespoke. In the next-door dining room, dark wood bookshelves, green leather seats and bare tables spell business, with the kitchen specialising in upmarket Brit grub. A starter of home-smoked salmon, which arrives in a miniature, smoke-filled bell jar alongside salmon tartare, pickled cucumber and avocado purée, sets the tone so high that the commendable beef Wellington and chocolate fondant almost disappoint by comparison. Service is spot on, although prices aren’t for the faint hearted.