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Just off Teddington’s main drag, this intimate Italian is well worth a short detour. The home-style cooking is peppered with strong flavours – as evidenced by a robust smoked-duck pancetta served sweet & sour onions, radish & watercress; or grilled calamari, here boosted by pungent pink pepper. A gentler dish of spinach gnocchi with fontina & Italian sausage packs a punch in other ways: the richness of the sauce making the effort to tackle lamb cutlets with potato rösti (let alone white-chocolate fondant with hazelnut ice cream) all but useless. The cooking’s of a competent standard & food is served with a smile by the omnipresent owners Marco & Nicola. Al Borgo is an easy restaurant to like & has already achieved quite a following of locals.

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