
Be prepared for plenty of ‘fuss and bluster' as you enter Hakkasan's exclusive Mayfair sibling. This bullish venue is custom-built for Brioni suits and Gucci bags with its jasmine-scented passageway, cacophonous cocktail bar and sleek, moody-blue dining room – a coven for those with no-limit plastic and an appetite for exceptionally skilful Chinese food: roast duck with black truffle and tea-plant emulsion, a ‘choreographically presented' dish of sweet-and-sour Duke of Berkshire pork with pomegranate, and ‘absolutely sensational' beef with Merlot. Fish and vegetables are also given five-star treatment, from steamed turbot with chanterelles to mushroom stir-fry with with gai lan, lily bulb and macadamia nuts. The kitchen has a reputation for seriously good dim sum too – ‘fantastic' scallop sui mai, duck dumplings, salt and pepper squid et al. The downsides are ‘surly' service, long waits and aggressively rude table-turning, but the food still ‘reigns supreme' – as do the ‘sexy' cocktails and scintillating, knowledgeably assembled wine list.
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Brunch etc. :: A romantic meal for two at Hakkasan
The entrance is fashionably discreet: stepping through an unobstrusive doorway on elegant Bruton Street, you are waved past the bouncer down a short corridor to the reception desk, where you are greeted by a veritable swarm of pretty girls*, dressed to the nines in fuschia and black frocks (and causing the attire of the up-market clientele to look almost shabby in comparison**). Hakkasan - owned by Alan Yau of Wagamama fame - has a reputation as one of the best Chinese/dim sum eateries in London, and being a huge fan of his other restaurants (Yautcha, for fantastic dim sum, cocktails, pastries, and a stunning aquarium; Busaba Eathai for Thai food with a twist - great if your group is large enough to commandeer one of the large 'communal ' table; and of course Wagamamas - quick, cheap, and reliably good ) I was extremely excited to finally go there...
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