Be prepared for plenty of ‘fuss and bluster' as you enter Hakkasan's exclusive Mayfair sibling. This bullish venue is custom-built for Brioni suits and Gucci bags with its jasmine-scented passageway, cacophonous cocktail bar and sleek, moody-blue dining room – a coven for those with no-limit plastic and an appetite for exceptionally skilful Chinese food: roast duck with black truffle and tea-plant emulsion, a ‘choreographically presented' dish of sweet-and-sour Duke of Berkshire pork with pomegranate, and ‘absolutely sensational' beef with Merlot. Fish and vegetables are also given five-star treatment, from steamed turbot with chanterelles to mushroom stir-fry with with gai lan, lily bulb and macadamia nuts. The kitchen has a reputation for seriously good dim sum too – ‘fantastic' scallop sui mai, duck dumplings, salt and pepper squid et al. The downsides are ‘surly' service, long waits and aggressively rude table-turning, but the food still ‘reigns supreme' – as do the ‘sexy' cocktails and scintillating, knowledgeably assembled wine list.
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