A grown-up rendezvous for Soho’s swaggering smart set, Dean Street Townhouse ‘looks like a posh brasserie but feels like a members’ bar populated by tall blondes and media types’. The smart dining room’s red-leather booths and pristine white-clothed tables scream business, while dim lighting, eclectic artwork and jewel-coloured drapes add some flamboyant pomp for the cooler, after-hours crowd. Although dishes often look fancier than they taste, the kitchen’s dependable, familiar approach suits the restaurant’s clubby vibe. Fixtures such as smoked-haddock soufflé, mince and potatoes, sea bass with samphire or juicy rib-eye with béarnaise sauce are sure-fire hits, while desserts tend to be merciless on the waistline – go for broke with the theatrical cherry-and-chocolate bombe or pimped-up bread-and-butter pud. Given the restaurant’s frenetic pace, service occasionally hits a trough – although staff respond well to the more leisurely demands of afternoon tea.
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