‘Affordable luxury’ was the stated aim when Gordon Ramsay reopened ‘ultra-discreet’ Pétrus a stone’s throw from its original location in The Berkeley hotel, & he’s got it spot on. GR’s deputy, Sean Burbridge, dishes up food that people really want to eat, & prices are not to be sniffed at in Belgravia (three courses for £65 is top whack). For this price, you might sample juicy scallops with sweet cauliflower purée, piquant anchovies & capers followed by a square of perfectly cooked pork belly topped with a sheet of gorgeous crackling, with dessert delivering super-smooth hazelnut & chocolate parfait overlaid with nuggets of crunchy praline. Spot-on service is quietly assured & unfailingly warm to all & sundry, while the cylindrical wine cellar displays special bottles for all occasions. The whole experience is embellished with nifty extras, as well as little treats to take home. Deservedly popular.
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