The guys behind Docklands’ spiffiest ‘bar/kitchen/cocktail lounge’ clearly had fun while shopping for accessories to fill this all-dayer. It’s like a trolley dash through the Conran Shop – Bertoia bar stools, Eames rockers & the rest look ‘super trendy’ under the modish exposed ductwork, & there’s design overload on the tables too. Clipboards, pegs, takeaway cartons & pots of herbs are, frankly, a surfeit of ‘stuff’. The Brit/global allsorts menu is very busy too, a crammed page of sharing boards, sandwiches, burgers, steaks, salads & mains. ‘Quirky’ presentation occasionally trumps flavour: neither prawn ‘lollipops’ (not deveined) nor underpowered Thai beef salad tasted half as good as they looked. Overall, it can seem ‘distinctly average’, but the vibe inside & out is kicking; ‘yummy’ cocktails & an everything-by-the-glass approach to wine are also commendable.
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