It’s surprising how well Boisdale’s trademark eccentricity has travelled to its third branch in shiny Cabot Place – its mash-up of jazz, art, cigars & bonny Scotland settled in almost immediately. One instant convert declares it ‘10 years overdue’. What it offers is a multi-faceted experience: a whisky & cigar bar, client-friendly grill, oyster bar & live gig venue, all under one roof (Jools Holland is ‘patron of music’). Service is ‘exquisite’, but it’s hard to argue with claims that the food is ‘substantially overpriced’ – though it’s also rather good. Shepherd’s pie, fish & chips, & a £19.75 set menu are at the affordable end; seven types of caviar & 21 variations on steak are at the other. You’ll have to stump up for the entertainment too, although there’s a cheaper terrace bar upstairs.
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