Princess of Shoreditch

Split between a charming ground-floor pub & an elegant upstairs restaurant, the Princess pulls off a nifty double act. The stunning, wood-heavy Victorian heritage of the bar is pointed up by the light that streams through beautiful floor-to-ceiling windows, & the food is pitched at drinkers’ purses: about £6 for ham hock & pickle terrine & £10 for mains such as sausage & mash. A cast-iron spiral staircase leads up to a classy dining room of clothed tables & more big windows. Here the options are more ambitious – perhaps king scallops with caramelised salsify & wild mushrooms or a faultless assemblage of cider-braised pork belly with spinach, carrot & star anise purée, black pudding & crackling, with a stellar chocolate fondant & pistachio cream to conclude. Service is excellent & the lengthy wine list easily accessible.