Dressy & occasionally deafeningly mobbed, Aqua Kyoto is ‘swish & glamorous’, with a high-energy, Champagne-cocktail crowd enjoying the scene. The Japanese food is high-end stuff & the menu makes thrilling reading: smoked yellowtail sashimi with pea-shoot salad; baby squid kara-age (deep-fried) with crab miso & langoustine salt; cold green-tea noodles with Wagyu sashimi. Sadly, all that flash & hoo-ha doesn’t always translate into gustatory fireworks, with reports of distinctly ‘average’ food on the increase. The simplest dishes are probably the best: 12 pieces of ‘chef-selected’ sashimi are sweet, fresh & beautifully presented. Mind you, puddings such as caramelised nashi pear tart or chocolate & praline doughnuts with yuzu curd are also ‘craveworthy’. The rare roof terrace is a dream ticket, & there is a similarly loud & swanky feel to the cocktail bar, Aqua Spirit.
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