A ‘sumptuous’ eyrie, this contemporary Spanish dining room shares its top-floor space with the equally snazzy Japanese eatery Aqua Kyoto. The cooking is ambitious, modernist stuff from a former El Bulli chef who revels in creative, graphic cuisine, & the menu makes titillating reading – although the results aren’t always up to the mark. Spanish comestibles shine brightly in the shape of excellent pata negra ham & juicy Iberian pork secreto, served with potato mille-feuille. Elsewhere, lacklustre lobster & tuna belly have been outdone by a starter of sardine served with layers of cream cheese, confit tomato & lightly pickled red onion, & a main of turbot with anchovy salsa. Other plus points are the top-drawer, all-Spanish wine list, the glamorous interior & one of London’s loveliest rooftop terraces – a highly alluring space with the pop-star parties to prove it.
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