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With its dark facade, mullioned windows & pavement sign, The Clarendon may look like a straightforward boozer, but step inside & you’ll see the hallmarks of a serious foodie set-up. An ale-free bar & an open kitchen intent on baking bread & studiously butchering meat point to an operation fully focused on dining – although ‘patchy’ service can let things down. Beef is a top call & the menu promises five different cuts, all aged for at least 28 days (the chateaubriand is recommended). Elsewhere, British regions & suppliers get a namecheck, so expect the likes of Herdwick lamb, Portland crab or Telmara Farm duck (perhaps served with rösti, spring greens & raspberry compote). Thirtysomethings needing to down cocktails & glasses of rosé head for the upstairs bar & terrace.

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