If any chef can fill a chain restaurant with his personality it’s Jamie Oliver, & sure enough, the bustling Canary Wharf outpost of his eponymous Italian is evidently a pukka hit with a predominantly youthful fan base. Some nevertheless find the experience ‘disappointing’, citing ‘tiny’ portions & long waits for tables, although you can book. The menu is garnished with the usual self-congratulatory Oliver adjectives; at its best, the food lives up to them. A vegetable antipasti plank was covered in good things; less successful was the tepid & chewy ‘crispy’ squid; things perked up with a delicious flash-grilled feather steak. The wine list majors on sub-£25 Italians & delivers impressively refined drinking for the money. Friendly, upbeat service is a bonus.
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